This includes heading off in the direction you say, maintaining gait and direction once on the circle, and coming back in with the slightest suggestion. It is broken into three distinct parts: the send, the allow, and the bring back. Lead your horse with just a light pull on the lead rope in the direction you want them in. Use a carrot stick or the end of your lead rope in the other hand to support them in that direction. Touch your horse on the neck with your rope or stick if they are standing looking at you.
If at any point of the four phases, your horse tries to go in the direction you instructed, allow them to go on the circle.
During the allow phase, simply pass the rope behind your back without turning, talking, clucking or using the carrot stick. You only move when your horse stops, then you send them out again. Only ask for the bring back once your horse has completed at least two laps at any gait.
To lead your horse in, run your hand down the lead rope, bringing it to your belly button. Next, touch your horse on the top of their hip to get them to face you. During the Sideways Game, you will teach your horse how to straighten and have them yield laterally with softness and respect. This builds the foundation for teaching your horse to sidepass, as well as developing suspension, spins and flying lead changes. Once you are ready, ask your horse to go sideways.
Use a halter and lead rope and have them stand with their nose on a fence or wall. Place yourself facing their mid-section and ask your horse to move one end, a step or two at a time. If using a carrot stick, move it slowly back and forth like a windshield wiper. Move the forehand then hindquarters until your horse is going sideways. Ask your horse to do just a few steps to start off with. Then, build up to where you can send them sideways for 20, 30 or even up to 50 feet at a time.
Begin using the Driving Game technique to move them sideways before trying the Porcupine Game technique. The Squeeze Game helps your horse to overcome claustrophobic spaces by teaching them to be calmer, smarter and braver. By doing this, they will learn to squeeze through narrow spots without concern. Last of the seven Parelli Games, the Squeeze Game uses the same techniques as the Circle Game, but instead of playing the game in a circle, you play it in a straight line.
Begin the game by standing by your horse approximately feet from a fence. If your horse appears nervous, you may widen the space. Send your horse through this narrow space by leading their nose and driving them forward from their hindquarters by using a lead rope or carrot stick.
Once moving, simply allow your horse to go through. Then, turn with your horse and once on the other side, ask for the bring back. Keep asking your horse to go back and forth across the narrow area, giving short rests on each end to provide incentive. When your horse is confident with that space, try with a narrower space. Allow them to get comfortable before narrowing the space again until there is just a three-foot distance between you and the fence. This can take several weeks and is important to always remember to end every session on a good note.
Porcupine Game The Porcupine Game helps your horse overcome fearful, defensive reactions to pressure, learning how to yield and move away from it. Principle 1: Intention In principle one, intention, you need to clearly convey your intentions through your body language. Principle 2: Steady Pressure Principle two, steady pressure, is straightforward, as it reinforces the importance of applying steady pressure.
Principle 3: Four Phases of Friendly Firmness For principle three, four phases of friendly firmness, there are four components of applying pressure. Principle 4: Rub-Press-Rub In principle four, rub-press-rub, you need to prepare your horse to play the Porcupine Game by rubbing them first. Your goal in the driving game is to teach your horse how to move away from your signal instead of direct pressure. This will become very helpful when doing liberty and your horse is at a distance away from you.
You should be able to drive your horse forward, backwards, left and right. The Yo-Yo Game This game balances backwards and forwards movements while developing straightness. Your goal on this game is to have your horse move back with the slightest movement of your finger pointing at him and with your eyes beaming beyond his hindquarters. When backing your horse try keeping the belly of the rope on the ground to a desired amount and then bring him back.
Try backing your horse over a pole, through a gate, or under a tarp keeping him straight the entire time. This game will help teach your horse his responsibilities. There are three parts to the circle game.
The send, allow and bring back. You want a speedy departure, and a good allow and bring back. When you are in the allow part of the game, remember to let him commit to the mistake before you ask again. The Sideways Game If your horse knows how to play games one through five then he is ready for the sideways game. If you have trouble with sideways then something is missing from one of the prior games. It will also teach him to lift his body which will increase his athletic ability.
It will prepare him for side yields and more advanced moves like lead changes, spins, roll backs, and more. The Squeeze Game This is the last game to teach your horse. Retreat, move back to a foot or even foot gap, and slowly work back toward that threshold. After you've made your way through these games, that doesn't mean that you're done with them.
You should be playing, or at least referencing, these games every time you're with your horse, no matter what level horsemanship you achieve. Your relationship with your horse will grow stronger, and your horsemanship will improve as a result. I am just starting - would I do all 7 in one session - or do you start with the Friendly game and when that is going well, then advance to the next game?
I'd suggest doing them often, but not all 7 at once. Try doing 1 or 2 each session. Maybe even do a short session of games 1, 2, and 3, and then 4, 5, and six another day. Experiment with your horse too, learn what he does and does not enjoy. Yes No. Not Helpful 4 Helpful Ariel Griffith. The horse will become very willing and attuned to what you want. It is just another way to communicate better with your horse. Not Helpful 3 Helpful Horses communicate by moving their ears and making sounds, such as nickering or a whinny.
A whinny is just like a neigh, and if they move their ears back and show teeth, that means they're angry and warning you that they may bite. They may also snort, blow, squeal, grunt, or groan. They also may switch their tail to swat flies, and some other things.
Horses have many different ways of communicating, so make sure you can tell if they're angry or happy. Not Helpful 9 Helpful Your leg is the key! Many riders think that you should control your horse with the reins, but it can be more helpful to bend the horse using your inside leg and your inside rein. Focusing more on your inside leg. This should help to control your horse better.
Not Helpful 11 Helpful I do the groundwork and my horse has still been very naughty when I ride. He does a , bolts and bucks. I have tried to do more groundwork than riding at this point because I know what he can do. Any advice? Disengage his hindquarters. Cut back the groundwork and be very strict. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 5. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Remember, your horse is trying really hard so they should be praised, even if they only sort of do it. Helpful 3 Not Helpful 0. It is helpful to know your horses history has she ever been trained with this method or another way? Was she abused? Do not start to do this and then decide it's a waste of time--you need to go all the way to the end. You won't regret it if you've done it right! Helpful 2 Not Helpful 0.
More frequent shorter sessions are better then less frequent longer sessions. They just get boring for you and your horse. Each training session should be ended on a good note and with a little free time and some playing time. Helpful 3 Not Helpful 1. Different horses learn differently.
This article is for the more "basic" horse. Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. Remember that this is going to take a lot of time and patience and your horse is not going to do everything right the first time. Don't push your horse into something it doesn't want to do. That will weaken the trust bond. If the horse seems uncomfortable with something, talk to your horse, let it know that everything is going to be ok.
However, be sure you are not praising him for acting out or spooking. This will teach your horse to act spooked instead of learning to be confident. Remember that anything done with your hand, should also be done with your carrot stick and savvy string, to show your horse it is not a whip but an extension of your arm. Helpful 1 Not Helpful 1. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. If your horse is having a really bad day, don't even start.
It's not going to work. Instead, try just playing the Friendly Game by petting them and use it to build the bond with your horse. Helpful 53 Not Helpful 4. Even if you have had the worst training session ever, always end on a good note. Do you want the last thing your horse remembers to be you yelling at him?
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