The amount of manual transmission fluid your vehicle needs can be anywhere from 6 to 16 quarts, so a difference of five bucks a quart soon adds up. At the end of the day, the most important factor is getting the right manual transmission fluid for your vehicle. If you find several that are suitable, you can then compare prices.
Most experts say that, if properly looked after, a manual transmission will last around , miles, though there are examples of carefully driven cars that have gone twice that distance. The following symptoms indicate that something could be wrong. Bear in mind that some of these problems might also be related to the clutch. Any one of these problems requires immediate attention. How often should I change my manual transmission fluid? If your transmission has to work hard, either through frequent gear changes typical in very hilly areas or because you do a lot of towing, you might want to change it more frequently.
It does no harm. A regular visual check is a good idea or note if you get any of the problem signs listed above. All transmissions wear, and those tiny particles contaminate the fluid, creating more wear.
Can I change the manual transmission fluid myself? Be careful not to overfill when adding the new fluid. Can I use the same transmission fluid that I use in my automatic vehicle? Some cars will run quite happily on automatic transmission fluid ATF. You should never mix the two or use ATF to top up manual transmission fluid. BestReviews spends thousands of hours researching, analyzing, and testing products to recommend the best picks for most consumers.
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Best for Honda Vehicles Bottom Line. Red Line Oil. Low Sulfur Formula Bottom Line. Royal Purple. Right now I'm getting a little bit of scrape downshifting into first. My opinion: put the cheapest, crappiest 80W90 gear oil you possibly can in a Subie tranny, and don't slam through the gears, it's unnecessary.
Subyluvr, I respect your approach. I just like to pour lots of money into my cars, regardless of whether I can afford to! Dino oil makes cold shifts very baulky. Frost and city driving, means that the gearbox takes a long time to warm up Synthetics have a clear advantage in this discipline.
Check out the TwinTurbo. I haven't noticed any difference thus far in my own 90 ZX, as I only use it as a toy for maybe km a year, and the car is so low mileage that there is no wear yet in the gear set. Correct me if im wrong, but the GM oil is gl I thought we all had to use gl-5??? For an amateur like myself, some explain the difference between the 2 categories.
My tranny is grinding like mad from where i have to be completely stopped. But i dunno if i can part with 45 bucks for 3 quarts. Recently, I've put Royal Purple into my 03 wrx's tranny Trust me, I do too.
I am obsessive in the way I invest money in my cars, but I cheap out on spark plugs and gear oil, because the cheapest forms of these work best IMO But what works best for you Setright, go with it. Cold shifts always sucked and clunked, over the summer the shifting was great, now that its getting colder the shifts are getting worse, again.
So I am switching to uncle scottys cocktail. I know a lot of u are not fond of nasioc, but this guy has been running it for 3 years with no problems, and hundreds of people on that board use it and love it. Some oldschool people over there have used it also and saw improvement. I will list the cocktail ingredients:. You can order everything from amazon. When you order it, you'll see that the related items are all listed, and they are the other componetns of the mixture. Like I said I haven't tried it but give me a month.
Oil sure can make a difference in a tranny as well as an engine. I was whineing about my tranny being the next thing out on my Subaru about 40, miles ago and had the tranny oil changed. Setright was one of the folks who told me the 5 speed might whine on forever and right now it looks like it might.
All modern oils are very good but some are just a bit better than others for particular purposes. Recently trying Havoline in my Forester seems to have cut piston slap. Oil is somewhat cheap to experiment with. Sorry to disagree with your diss of Redline, but I have to recommend the Redline 75WNS which is what they suggest for "older" transmissions with synchro problems.
When I bought our '91 Legacy wagon it came with a significant "crunch" when shifting into 2nd and down into 1st. I changed the oil when I bought the Legacy and found that the "crunch" disappeared in the next 3 to 6 months. Being a bit skeptical, there was always the possibility that I was compensating for the defect in the synchros and that it wasn't the oil at all.
Since then I've put 75K miles on the car and the transmission is shifting just fine due for another oil change in the next year of so. More recently, I bought a '94 Impreza sedan with a much more definite "crunch" shifting in the lower gears. I only use the Impreza for rallycross and while any of our daily driver's is out of service. I changed the transmission oil shortly after I bought it and again used the Redline NS oil. In the few miles I've driven the car around 5K the "crunch" is definitely diminished and I have to purposely rush the shift to see even a hint of it.
This Impreza comes with a "short shifter" installed which likely takes its toll on the synchros. After two good successes with the Redline I see no reason to try anything else. My Redline dealer has told me story after story of Subaru owners who were told then need new trannys only to run 75WNS and fix their troubles. I have been a bit fan of Redline for year, has fixed several of my roos shifting issue from way back.
Of course he works for Redline so he'll say that but he seemed genuine. This guys english is a bit dodgy, but you should be able to make out the basic point, that the main differences between GL-4 and GL-5 are the amount of antiscuffing additives, not necessarily the additives themselves.
API GL-1 - oils for light conditions. They will consist of base oils without additives. Sometimes they contain small amounts of antioxidizing additives, corrosion inhibitors, depresants and antifoam additives. API GL-1 oils design for spiral-bevel, worm gears and manual transmissions without synchronizers of trucks and farming machines.
API GL-2 - oils for moderate conditions. They contain antiwear additives. They design for worm gears of vehicles. The oils recommend to lubrication of transmissions of tractors and farming machines. API GL-3 - oils for moderate conditions. The oils are containing up to 2. Premium grade moly base with rust and corrosion inhibitors. Available in a. Prepares potential wear surface and prevents metal contact before adequate lubrication can be supplied.
Recommended and used by top camshaft and drivetrain manufacturers. Max-Tuff utilizes unique, synthetic molecules that adhere to metal surfaces to create a formidable, load-bearing physical barrier between surfaces. It also makes bearings run smoother, cooler and quieter. Specified by many OEM service manuals, you can rest assured it is a perfect choice for your engine. Excellent for all types of hypoid differentials with or without limited-slip and systems operating under shocks and heavy loads.
It contains friction modifier which is recommended for limited-slip units. This product used to be offered only in the 5-gallon pail formerly known as "Extra-S. Subaru Applications. Improved wear protection, resists thermal breakdown, evaporation and foaming.
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