I just got the Canon f4 IS after a bunch of research. Very happy as my first semi-big prime. You say no 2. Would you use 1. I felt this was the best option when needed getting to 5. Plan on using the 1. Wanted to try outdoors local wildlife with canon L. Being very iso and aperature sensitive from low light and having dealt with 3rd party lenses hunting in low light, I wanted a canon prime.
Canon F4 IS was the choice. Have not tried 1. Just couious you thoughts for 1. Have seen good shots and good results online. But your needs and my needs are probably vastly different. Try it for yourself and evaluate the images. Make sure you also test the AF speed though.
The main one is an understanding of autofocus. Autofocus systems in a camera require a lot of light to work accurately. When you add a 2x extender to a lens, it takes away a lot of that light, which is why AF with a 2x is considerably slower than without it. There might be some 3rd party solutions that can hack this to work with the 2x extender, but the autofocus will not be very good at all.
Sigma on the other hand have been pushing lens development very hard, and there are Sigma lenses that are on a par with Canon ones, but cost less. If both the Canon lens and the equivalent third party lens have the same max aperture, their ability to autofocus with a 2x will be the same. I am not a pro here, and using Nikon D Nikkor 5. Not sure when I got it, but it has helped, once I figured out what was going on.
When ever I used the 2x converter, everything would overexpose by 2 stops. Once I figured this out, I was able to adjust the Exposure Compensation down 2 stops and all works fine, including all the other converter use headaches. Certainly the sensor should be getting less light, and maybe in doing so, the meter is asking the lens what it is set to, and it gets back mm at f8, and gets some indication that there is a 2x converter, boosting the meter level up, causing the over exposure.
So to override the camera computer, I have to compensate down two stops? Any thoughts? This makes zero sense, although if you Google it there are plenty of people having such issues over the years, with third party extenders. Many citing issued with light angle and focusing screens. Essentially, all bets are off once you switch to a third party option like Kenko, especially an old cheap one.
Totally weird! Cheers Patrick! If you ever get to the bottom of it all, let me know! Hi, I just wanted to say I am seeing this exact problem of overexposed images with a second hand Kenko 2x teleconvertor. I am planning to use two 2X teleconverters behind my lens. If I set the aperture of my lens to 2. Thanks for spotting the typo! Hi Dan…I enjoyed your article. I am an amateur photographer and frequently shoot my kids soccer games.
I have a 5dii and use a 2. I generally get pretty good shots but would like a little more reach. Assuming a fairly sunny day around noon and using the 2x converter what shutter speed and iso would you recommend? I assume i would want the camera to maintain the lowest fstop 5. I also shoot with shutter priority….
Thank you in advance for your help and all the best. For underwater photography, there can be good reasons for using a teleconverter with very wide angle lenses, even including a fisheye lens.
For example one may want to narrow the field of coverage while keeping the better corner performance behind a dome.
How would I calculate the change in diagonal field of view of the Nikon mm fisheye at 15mm on full format degrees at 15mm with a 1. Will a TC even fit on that lens? On a recent trip to the Galapagos islands I rented a Canon and 1. I found the extender to result in too many missed shots for a few reasons you mentioned 1 slow autofocus, 2 light reduction, 3 camera shake in motorized raft. Upon reviewing my shots, I found that with the 50mp sensor sharp focus was very important to getting a quality image.
My best shots were shot without the extender and [properly] using photoshop to enlarge the images after crop. With this camera, I found the light loss to be crippling with an extender. I have a mm f2.
How does the 2 times converter work on this? Is it a good travel combo — how would it compare to mk2 quality? It depends on which version of the Canon mm you have? Or perhaps something older? You mention both but you stop short. Also stability is hugely important, when you are shooting a scene at mm your subject will shake, I leverage VR and. Even with a 2X. Thanks for your post. I have a mm Nikon lens and think I might need to upgrade my 1.
Either by my own shake movement or not using the mirror up mode. No need to user mirror lock up mode. Many people shoot moving subjects with a tele lens and an TC.
If you think something is really a long way off you could send the pair off to be calibrated by Nikon. I would have thought that any prime mm from Nikon is capable though. Perhaps your expectations are too high? There will be some drop in sharpness. I have the latest mm Micro-Nikkor on a D If I have a ratio, that means that a rectangle of 36x24mm will fill the frame. Now, if I add a 1. To my knowledge, the magnification ratio changes by the same amount as extender.
So it would become These days I prefer using my full frame body for better IQ. In our situations, birds are sighted far away in most of the cases. They increase the focal length of the lens it is used with, so a mm becomes a mm — and a mm becomes a mm zoom. So if you use a 1. This means that teleconverters work best with lenses that have a wide maximum aperture to start with.
Cheat sheet: what are f-stops? Many modern autofocus systems, however, especially on the latest mirrorless cameras, now go way beyond that, so it may no longer be an issue.
This is an important point. Lenses and lens mounts are far more complicated than they used to be, so you can't assume any teleconverter will fit any lens. Far from it. In fact, the list of compatible lenses is often quite short.
The main camera and lens makers to list the lenses their teleconverters are compatible with our guide to the best teleconverters lists compatibility information, where available. However, this information may be harder to check if you buy a cheap, generic third-party teleconverter online, for example. This implies that when shooting handheld with a teleconverter, you will need to use a faster shutter speed to overcome camera shake.
For instance, a Nikon teleconverter would work great with a Nikon lens and a Nikon body. They can be a bit pricey but produce great results. Since the teleconverter comes in between the lens and the sensor, it adds a bit of variance of its own.
The camera thinks of the lens and teleconverter combo as an entirely different lens, which leads to the need for a separate calibration. Perry has a different opinion on this matter. Join over , photographers of all experience levels who receive our free photography tips and articles to stay current:.
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How to Use Teleconverters by Sunny Shrestha. Like This Article? Don't Miss The Next One!
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