Install vinyl fences

But fences can be difficult to build and maintain. Wood fences are attractive but high-maintenance. Some untreated wood like cedar can be left on its own to turn silver-gray and streaky—a look that some homeowners do not like.

Painted fences give your home a neat, trim look yet become difficult to paint as they age out. That's where vinyl fences come in. Vinyl fences are highly durable, low-maintenance, and attractive. Vinyl fences are untreated and unpainted because their color is infused in the vinyl.

They manage to keep their color from season to season, year to year. Vinyl fences rely on an interlocking component system. Upon purchase, you must make sure that you have all of the necessary components to form a complete kit. Otherwise, you will not be able to build the fence as vinyl fences do not allow for improvisation.

Vinyl picket fences begin with anchor pipes driven into the ground by a sledgehammer. Hollow posts slide over the anchor pipes like sleeves. Two anchor pipes form a section in which one fence panel can be built: one rail at the bottom, one rail at the top, and multiple pickets that run through the two rails.

Taller, six-foot vinyl privacy fences' posts must be anchored into the ground with concrete, like conventional four-by-four fence posts. These posts do not slide over an anchor pipe; they are sunk directly into the concrete. A fence panel is pre-built—a single piece, not separate pieces that must be assembled. You may need to obtain a permit before building your fence.

If so, when the work is complete, an inspector must visit the site and close out the permit. All work must be built according to local building codes and regulations. Look at legal issues such as easements and zoning. Your local permitting department can advise you on local zoning and setback regulations that affect fence construction.

If the ground is frozen, it will be difficult for you to drive the anchor pipes for a picket fence or dig the holes for a privacy fence. Wait until the ground has thawed before starting construction. Whenever you dig on your property, you should call your local utility locator to visit and identify the location of any underground services such as gas, water, and electrical lines.

These services will be marked with color-coded spray paint that eventually wears off on its own. Locate the positions of the anchor pipes and, with the sledgehammer, pound them into the ground to the required depth. Slide the post sleeves over the anchor pipes. With the bubble level, establish vertical plumb for the posts. Screw the posts into place or secure as required by the manufacturer. Screw the two bottom brackets into place, one on each post.

Slide the rail into the brackets and secure the rail. Repeat the process for the top brackets and rail. Pickets slide through holes in the top rail and rest on the bottom rail. Slide all pickets into place for the panel. Since the posts and pickets are hollow, they must be capped at the top. Snap the caps into place for the entire panel before constructing the next panel. Measure the width of the panel and add the specified amount of distance for brackets and for the posts.

Depending on the size and shape of your yard, or the area you want to fence off, you may want to go right along the property line, or measure other configurations and shapes. Whatever the case, you need to find out how much fencing you'll need to buy by measuring the desired area. Take these measurements to the home improvement store to buy supplies. Purchase the vinyl fencing and posts for the area.

You can purchase vinyl fencing in lengths that range from 2 to 8 feet 0. These lengths you place between vinyl fence posts. If you are fencing a very large area, purchase larger sections so you can bury fewer fence posts.

You will also need two 12 in 30 cm wooden stakes and four screws for temporary bracing. Make sure you also get enough concrete for each post. If you need an entry point along the fence, it's also important to purchase a vinyl gate kit that fits with the fencing you choose. Mark each post location. After purchasing enough posts, fence lengths, and the gate kits necessary to make your fence, mark the post positions and the lengths between the desired posts to ensure your vinyl fence section and hardware will fit.

You can't trim vinyl fencing sections, so you must be certain about your measurements. Lay out the fencing sections. Between each place where you plan to dig a hole, it's a good idea to set everything up to make the installation process easier. Make sure your posts are in the right location before digging your holes. Part 2.

Dig holes for your fence posts. Use either a power auger or a hand post-hole digger to dig holes that are 10 inches If you don't have an auger or digger, you can rent a power auger at a home improvement store, or you can dig them with a shovel, though it'll take a lot longer.

Place the fence posts one at a time. Once you've dug the holes for the posts, the next step is to install each post securely before connecting them with the vinyl sections. Always defer to the manufacturer's instructions for installation, but generally its recommended to install posts secured with gravel and concrete.

Insert a 2 foot 61 cm long 4" x 4" or 5" x 5" and use 1. Place the post into hole on gravel base and then pour concrete into hole and evenly around entire post. Stop six inches 15 cm below ground level to add soil for grass when concrete is cured. Check to make sure the pole is plumb using a level, and move on to the next post hole.

Continue installing all the posts and return to the beginning and make sure it's seated level again. Slope the concrete. Use a trough to scrape any excess concrete away from the posts so that the concrete slopes down away from the pole. This prevents water from pooling around the pole. Let the concrete dry completely. Install the vinyl fence sections between each post. Generally, vinyl fence sections snap right into place. Follow the specific manufacturer's directions regarding vinyl fence sections, as some may slide halfway into the post.

Attach the rails to the ends of each section with screws, if necessary, and then secure the rails to the posts in the ground. Attach the vinyl post tops with the hardware provided. Again, defer to the manufacturer's instructions. Generally, most vinyl fence kits will come with decorative toppers for the posts that you can snap on.

Do I have to let the posts sit for awhile after I set them with concrete, before I put the fence together? It is best practice to brace each post plumb level temporarily and at least 24 hours for concrete to fully harden. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 7. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 5. Not recommended, as the wooden posts can rot and leave the vinyl posts without support. Not Helpful 6 Helpful 5. There's no specific rule. It depends on the length and height of the fence sections, environmental factors such as wind load, cost considerations, and your own preference for appearance.

Posts could be set anywhere from six to 20 feet apart. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 3. Does the top rail or bottom rail get the reinforcement bar when installing a vinyl fence?

Place the reinforcement rail in the bottom channel to prevent the fence from sagging. The reinforcement rail should look like a "C" or "U"; put the opening downward for best support. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. Do I need to use wooden 4"x 4" posts under the 4" x 4" vinyl sleeves?

Can I use different sizes? Depends on the fencing. You can place wood supports inside them, but it sometimes doesn't matter with the manufacturer. You will need post supports at gates, though. They're metal and have enough room inside for the slats to be put in. If you are putting in support posts inside the vinyl, make sure you have room for the fence slats to be inserted. Otherwise, it's a huge pain to have to cut inside to ensure you have a proper fit. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1.